Car Maintenance

What's With Those Noisy Lights?

2005-04-03T01:55:00.000-08:00

by: News Canada

(NC)—Not too long ago, you hopped in your car and turned the key. A couple of lights flashed for a second, the motor started and you were ready to go. Not true anymore. A modern car or truck has bells and whistles and flashing lights galore – most of which briefly light up or sound off, as you settle in and start the engine. So what do they all mean, and how much attention should you pay to them? Well let's find out. But keep in mind that not all vehicles will have the same type or number of lights, bells, whistles or computer generated voices. And before we start, there are a couple of key points to remember. All of these devices have the same basic purpose. To communicate with you. Sometimes this communication is about friendly advice; like your keys are still in the ignition. Most of the time, this communication is an important warning that you should acknowledge, respect and act upon. So let's start with leaving the vehicle.

Ding, ding, ding or beep beep beep – You have just left the car, the door is still open and the car is talking to you. Most likely you have left your keys in the ignition or your lights are still on. Relax. It happens to everybody.
Ding ding ding again – You're in the car and you've started the motor. For the next few seconds you hear the ding. Most likely that's because you haven't fastened your seatbelt. So buckle up right away. In fact, you should buckle up before you turn the key. This is one ding you should never hear.
Lights Galore – When you first start your car or truck all sorts of lights flash and then you never see them again. Below, we are going to talk about those lights and how you should react to them. Which is great. But what is more important is that you read your owner's manual carefully. That way, you will know exactly which lights are which, and if your car is different in any way.
Seat Belt Light – Pretty obvious. You didn't pay attention to the ding ding ding. Once again, don't do this. Fasten your seat belt for your own good.
Airbag Light – Usually orange in colour, it flashes briefly as you start the car and often shows what looks like a person holding a beach ball. If this light comes on when you are driving, take your car to your dealer as soon as possible. Your airbag system might not be working properly.
Brake Light – Usually red, it often shows a little round disk or the word "brake". It indicates that your handbrake is on and that you should release it before driving away. If the light does not go out after you have released the handbrake, it could indicate low brake fluid or a malfunction in the brake system. Call your dealer. Do not drive the car until this problem is fixed.
Temperature Light – Often looks like a little thermometer. If it goes on when you are driving it means your engine might be overheating. This can be caused by not enough coolant (antifreeze and water) or not enough oil. Stop the car to let it cool down, then add coolant and/or oil if necessary, or call for help. Always use brand name coolants and high quality motor oils like Castrol GTX or Castrol Syntec. They provide superior protection for your engine.
High Beam Light – Usually blue. Indicates that your high beams are on, which you should always be aware of. Remember, only use your high beams when necessary.
Engine Check Light – This one is a little tricky as its function varies from car to car. But basically, it is part of your engine diagnostic system and is indicating that something is malfunctioning. This problem could be very minor, like a fuel cap not properly attached, or something potentially serious. The best idea is to drive carefully to your dealer as soon as possible. But not before you have got your haircut, finished your shopping, whatever. Just don't go on any trips.
Alternator / Battery – You can drive with a dead battery and a good alternator or a good battery and a dead alternator. But not for very long. If this light comes on you have an electrical malfunction. It might be as simple as a loose engine belt, or something more serious. Attend to the problem quickly.
Oil Light – This is one of the most important lights. It indicates that oil pressure is too low. If it goes on while driving, stop the engine as soon as possible and check the oil level. Add a high quality oil like Castrol GTX if necessary. If the light stays on when the engine oil level is normal, stop the engine immediately and call your dealer for service.
ABS / Anti-Skid Light – This important light will normally flash when your ABS system is actually in use and remain off the rest of the time. Often the same light will flash if an anti-skid or traction control system is actually in use, and once again, remain off the rest of the time. If this light comes on during normal driving, your brake system might be malfunctioning and you should see you dealer as soon as possible. Note: In some vehicles you can turn off the ABS or traction control system, and the light remains on all the time.
Big Brother Lights – These convenient little guys tell you what you should already know. Which means they are possibly the best loved lights of all. They include, in no particular order, lights that warn you about things like low fuel, low windshield washer fluid, doors that are ajar, trunks that are open, defoggers that are still on, heated seats that are still hot, brake pads that are almost worn and everybody's favourite, catalytic converters that refuse to convert.
Sayonara – Some cars, trucks and SUV's aren't satisfied with beeping and dinging and flashing at you. They talk. And say things like "your fuel is low, your fuel is low, your fuel is low….." . You get the idea. And being Canadian, they talk in French and English. On that note, sayonara.

A wealth of interesting and valuable information on motor oils and lubricants can be found at www.castrolcanada.com or other well known petroleum web sites.

Two and Four Stroke Engines: Fast and Simple Answers.

2005-04-03T01:54:00.000-08:00

by: Daniel Levy

A few fast responses and facts about Two and Four Stroke Engines.

Many years ago when I got hooked by motorcycles, I started to hear a lot about two and four stroke engines... It seemed there were (and there still are) strong opinions in pro and con of each of the engine types.

As Internet wasn't available, and as I was worried about other aspects or motorcycle riding back then, I left that question unanswered for a long time.

If this is your case or if your are interested in these two kind of internal combustion engines, in the next few lines I hope to give you a few fast answers and some resources to get more in depth information.

Just keep reading...

Here are some facts about two and four stroke engines:

TWO STROKE ENGINES

Cycle - Two Strokes:

Compression (intake+compression)
Combustion (combustion+exhaust)

Take a look at the cycle in: http://science.howstuffworks.com/two-stroke2.htm

Advantages of two stroke engines:

The engine fires - spark plug ignites - once every revolution of the crankshaft.
They produce twice the power than four stroke engines.
They are much simpler than four stroke engines. Fewer parts to worry about.

Disadvantages:

You have to mix two stroke engine oil with gas, and depending on your consumption, this might be expensive.
They last less. Lubrication is not as efficient as in a four stroke engine with heavy oil.
Do not use gas efficiently.
Pollute more.

FOUR STROKE ENGINES

Cycle - Four Strokes:

Intake
Compression
Combustion
Exhaust

Take a look at the cycle in: http://science.howstuffworks.com/engine4.htm

Advantages of four stroke engines:

Last longer than two stroke engines
More efficient use of gas
Pollute less than two stroke engines

Disadvantages:

More complicated. Many more parts to worry about.
Half as powerful as two stroke engines (for equivalent engines)
Fires once every two revolutions.

If you want to learn more about two stroke and four stroke engines, take a look at the pages I mention above. You will find extensive information and diagrams that will solve all of your doubts.

Well I hope this gave you some basic information and helped you answer some FAQ about two and four stroke engines! :-)

Enjoy the ride!

Daniel Levy

Top 10 Rules of High-Mileage Car Maintenance

2005-04-03T01:53:00.001-08:00

(ARA) - Americans are keeping their vehicles longer and driving farther than ever before. Today, the average age of vehicles on the road is greater than nine years and more than 68 percent of vehicles have more than 75,000 miles.

As a vehicle's engine ages, its performance decreases and oil starts to break down at a faster rate. Over time, seals begin to deteriorate, gaskets become brittle and oil consumption increases -- all leading to a reduction in engine performance.

Treating your high-mileage vehicle with a little TLC and consistently following the 10 rules for high-mileage vehicle maintenance will help ensure it will go the distance. Using premium motor oil specially formulated for higher-mileage cars -- such as Castrol GTX High Mileage Formulation --will also help a higher-mileage car feel young again.

Rule #1 -- Make sure you change your oil every three months or 3,000 miles -- whichever comes first. No exceptions. Think of your engine as the heart of your car and motor oil as the lifeblood of the engine. One can't function without the other, so stay on top of your oil-change schedule.

Rule #2 -- Find a good mechanic. If you don't do your own maintenance, find a shop staffed by ASE-certified mechanics (that's the National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence). A good mechanic will listen to your questions and explain procedures clearly.

Rule #3 -- Have your tire pressure checked at least once a month. It's the best way to prevent unexpected flats. A service station attendant can quickly and easily perform the check. Also make sure to rotate your tires and check their alignment as part of a regular tune-up (or with every other oil change).

Rule #4 -- Pay attention to warning signs. Of course, not every little thump or ping you hear spells disaster. Cars, like people, have their peculiarities, and you are sure to quickly learn what is normal for yours. With a high-mileage vehicle, however, it's best to check out any symptom --- be it a sound, smell or feeling -- that seems the slightest bit abnormal. Remember: an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

Rule #5 -- Pay attention to outward signs. If your car is leaking fluids, it can mean serious trouble. Keep an eye on the conditions of your driveway or regular parking space for stains or spots that can warn you of possible leaks. Castrol's GTX High Mileage Formulation motor oil contains special conditioners that help protect and maintain seals, thereby helping to reduce leakage -- a common problem in older, higher-mileage engines.

Rule #6 -- Schedule regular tune-ups. Even if your high-mileage car seems fine, that's no guarantee it is. Use tune-ups to ensure your car's major components are running smoothly and that they stay that way. Your oil should be changed, tires checked and rotated if necessary, belts checked and replaced, brake lines inspected, spark plugs and air filter checked and replaced, and fuel injector checked. A good way to top off a tune-up is an overall analysis of your car's engine, and undercar, safety and computer systems.

Rule #7 -- Prepare your car for the seasons. If you live in a sunny climate all year round, you can skip this step. For the rest of us, visit the "Ask the Expert" feature at www.castrolusa.com for a checklist of seasonal maintenance practices for your high-mileage vehicle. Preparing your high-mileage car to defend against the elements will lessen its chances of needing repairs and save you money in the long run.

Rule #8 -- Check your fluids regularly. It's dangerous for your high-mileage car to get dehydrated, so be sure to keep an eye on its vital fluids. Simply lift the hood and perform a quick visual check. Use the dipstick to check the oil level; a quick glance at the coolant reservoir will let you know if you need more cooling fluid.

Rule #9 -- Store it properly. Storing your vehicle in a dry, temperate location when it is not in use will prevent disastrous wear and tear on both its interior and exterior. Garage your car whenever possible to protect its looks.

Rule #10 -- Stay on top of safety features. Nothing is more important than your car's ability to protect both you and your passengers. Air bags, antilock breaks and any other additional safety features that you may have added to your car should be carefully checked on a regular basis (when your car has a tune-up) to ensure that in the event of an accident, they will perform their vital, lifesaving functions.

For more high-mileage vehicle maintenance tips, visit www.castrolusa.com.

The Three Basic Methods Of Car Pinstriping

2005-04-03T01:53:00.000-08:00

by: Marc Deschamps

Before we talk about the different auto pinstriping methods we need to cover a couple of basic points :

1) Pinstripes are usually done in two colors: one that compliments the body color, and another, thin line, which contrasts to make the stripe stand out. There are no rules: color choice is a matter of personal preference .... and imagination !!!

2) Make sure the surface to pinstripe is absolutely clean. Get rid of all residue with a good pre-surface preparation product

OK, now to the different auto pinstriping techniques :

Mechanical Pinstriping

A mechanical auto pinstriping is the best for striping long areas like trucks, vans, or station wagons. The main advantage is that it puts down stripes of consistent width, letting you concentrate more on keeping the contour of the stripe aligned along your work surface. The Buegler pinstriper and accessories are one of the preferred by body shops and pinstripers for their high quality construction and consistent operation. The easiest way to use a Buegler striper is to set up your stripe line using a magnetic auto pinstriping strip. It adheres firmly to steel surfaces, forms mild curves, and has a center groove designed with the Buegler's guide arm in mind. The strip can also act as a guide for your hand.

Striping with Stencil Tape

There are several different stencil tapes that are suitable for almost any auto pinstriping application. Stencil tapes let you lay down stripes of different colors without waiting for the other stripes to dry.

Stencil tape striping requires brushes: the pinstriping brush is the most important element for an excellent final result.

Freehand Striping

This auto pinstriping method is the most advanced one and requires the most practice to master, but offers unlimited flexibility. The easiest method for the freehand striping novice is to lay down a strip of masking tape about ¼ inch from where you would like the line to be. Use the tape as a visual guide for your stripes. Do not use standard masking tape for edging pinstripes. the pinstriping paint will seep and bleed under the edge of standard masking tape. The pinstriping can be as plain or as fancy as your patience and level of skill allows.

Regardless of the design, pinstriping is one of the best ways to make your vehicle very unique. Like anything worth doing right, practice will make worthwhile results .... and having the best possible supplies is critical too.

Ten Myths About Synthetic Lubrication

2005-04-03T01:50:00.000-08:00

by: Ed Newman

It's a fact of life that behavior is influenced by what people believe, whether true or not. Numerous cases from history bear this out. For example, sailors were once fearful of sailing outside the sight of land lest they would fall off the edge of the world. In the early

19th century, the train was considered dangerous because it was believed that if you moved faster than 25 miles per hour, you’d be traveling too fast to breathe. At a later date, the New York Times warned that electric light would cause blindness. Microwave ovens, automobiles and airplanes have had equally vociferous opponents.

Looking back, it's easy to laugh at some of the things people once held as true. But these people were not stupid. They were misinformed. In many instances they had simply drawn conclusions before all the facts were in. How easy it is to make the same mistake today.

In our own time, synthetic motor oils have been the object of numerous misconceptions held by the general public. Many people, including some mechanics, have been misled by these persistent myths.

PARAMETERS OF THE DEBATE

Synthetic motor oils are fuel efficient, extended life lubricants manufactured from select base stocks and special purpose additives. Synthetic oil base stocks are made from organic compounds or synthetic hydrocarbons using a process that re-arranges the structure so all the molecules are uniform in size, shape and weight, a phenomenon that does not occur in nature. In contrast to petroleum oils which are pumped from the earth and refined, synthetics are custom-designed to produce, in effect, the ideal lubricant.

In responding to the objections most commonly raised against synthetics it is important to establish the parameters of the debate. When speaking of synthetic motor oils, this article is defending the lubricants which have been formulated to meet the performance standards set by the American Petroleum Institute (API). (The first such synthetic motor oil independently tested and confirmed to meet these industry-accepted tests for defining engine oil properties and performance characteristics was AMSOIL 100% Synthetic 10W-40 in 1972.)

Many people with questions about synthetics haven't known where to turn to get correct information. Is it super oil or snake oil? Some enthusiasts will swear that synthetics are capable of raising your car from the dead. On the other hand, the next fellow asserts that synthetics will send your beloved car to an early grave. Where's the truth in all this?

In an effort to set the record straight, we've assembled here ten of the more persistent myths about synthetic motor oils to see how they stack up against the facts.

Myth #1: Synthetic motor oils damage seals.

Untrue. It would be foolhardy for lubricant manufacturers to build a product that is incompatible with seals. The composition of seals presents problems that both petroleum oils and synthetics must overcome. Made from elastomers, seals are inherently difficult to standardize.

Ultimately it is the additive mix in oil that counts. Additives to control seal swell, shrinkage and hardening are required, whether it be a synthetic or petroleum product that is being produced.

Myth #2: Synthetics are too thin to stay in the engine.

Untrue. In order for a lubricant to be classified in any SAE grade (10W-30, 10W-40, etc.) it has to meet certain guidelines with regard to viscosity ("thickness").

For example, it makes no difference whether it's 10W-40 petroleum or 10W-40 synthetic, at -25 degrees centigrade (-13F) and 100 degrees centigrade (212 degrees F) the oil has to maintain a standardized viscosity or it can't be rated a 10W-40.

Myth #3: Synthetics cause cars to use more oil.

Untrue. Synthetic motor oils are intended for use in mechanically sound engines, that is, engines that don't leak. In such engines, oil consumption will actually be reduced. First, because of the lower volatility of synlubes. Second, because of the better sealing characteristics between piston rings and cylinder walls. And finally, because of the superior oxidation stability (i.e. resistance of synthetics against reacting with oxygen at high temperatures.)

Myth #4: Synthetic lubricants are not compatible with petroleum.

Untrue. The synthesized hydrocarbons, polyalphaolefins, diesters and other materials that form the base stocks of high-quality name brand synthetics are fully compatible with petroleum oils. In the old days, some companies used ingredients that were not compatible, causing quality synlubes to suffer a bum rap. Fortunately, those days are long gone.

Compatibility is something to keep in mind, however, whether using petroleum oils or synthetics. It is usually best to use the same oil for topping off that you have been running in the engine. That is, it is preferable to not mix your oils, even if it is Valvoline or Quaker State you are using. The reason is this: the functions of additives blended for specific characteristics can be offset when oils with different additive packages are put together. For optimal performance, it is better to use the same oil throughout.

Myth #5: Synthetic lubricants are not readily available.

Untrue. This may have been the case two decades ago when AMSOIL and Mobil 1 were the only real choices, but today nearly every major oil company has added a synthetic product to their lines. This in itself is a testament to the value synthetics offer.

Myth #6: Synthetic lubricants produce sludge.

Untrue. In point of fact, synthetic motor oils are more sludge resistant than their petroleum counterparts, resisting the effects of high temperature and oxidation. In the presence of high temperatures, two things can happen. First, an oil's lighter ingredients boil off, making the oil thicker. Second, many of the complex chemicals found naturally in petroleum base stocks begin to react with each other, forming sludge, gum and varnish. One result is a loss of fluidity at low temperatures, slowing the timely flow of oil to the engine for vital component protection.

Further negative effects of thickened oil include the restriction of oil flow into critical areas, greater wear and loss of fuel economy.

Because of their higher flash points, and their ability to withstand evaporation loss and oxidation, synthetics are much more resistant to sludge development.

Two other causes of sludge -- ingested dirt and water dilution -- can be a problem in any kind of oil, whether petroleum or synthetic. These are problems with the air filtration system and the cooling system respectively, not the oil.

Myth #7: Synthetics can't be used with catalytic converters or oxygen sensors.

Untrue. There is no difference between synthetic and petroleum oils in regards to these components. Both synthetic and petroleum motor oils are similar compounds and neither is damaging to catalytic converters or oxygen sensors. In fact, because engines tend to run cleaner with synthetics, sensors and emission control systems run more efficiently and with less contamination.

Myth#8: Synthetics void warranties.

Untrue. Major engine manufacturers specifically recommend the use of synthetic lubricants. In point of fact, increasing numbers of high performance cars are arriving on showroom floors with synthetic motor oils as factory fill.

New vehicle warranties are based upon the use of oils meeting specific API Service Classifications (for example, SJ/CF). Synthetic lubricants which meet current API Service requirements are perfectly suited for use in any vehicle without affecting the validity of the new car warranty.

In point of fact, in the twenty-eight years that AMSOIL Synthetic Lubricants have been used in extended service situations, over billions of miles of actual driving, these oils have not been faulted once for voiding an automaker's warranty.

Myth #9: Synthetics last forever.

Untrue. Although some experts feel that synthetic base stocks themselves can be used forever, it is well known that eventually the additives will falter and cause the oil to require changing. Moisture, fuel dillution, and the by-products of combustion (acids and soot) tend to use up additives in an oil, allowing degradation to occur.

However, by "topping off", additives can be replenished. Through good filtration and periodic oil analysis, synthetic engine oils protect an engine for lengths of time far beyond the capability of non-synthetics.

Myth #10: Synthetics are too expensive.

Untrue. Tests and experience have proven that synthetics can greatly extend drain intervals, provide better fuel economy, reduce engine wear and enable vehicles to operate with greater reliability. This more than offsets initial price differences. All these elements combine to make synthetic engine oils more economical than conventional non-synthetics.

In Europe, synthetics have enjoyed increasing acceptance as car buyers look first to performance and long term value rather than initial price. As more sophisticated technology places greater demands on today's motor oils, we will no doubt see an increasing re-evaluation of oil buying habits in this country as well.

CONCLUSIONS

Since their inception, manufacturers of synthetic motor oils have sought to educate the public about the facts regarding synthetics, and the need for consumers to make their lubrication purchasing decisions based on quality rather than price. As was the case with microwave ovens or electric lights, a highly technological improvement must often overcome a fair amount of public skepticism and consumer inertia before it is embraced by the general population.

But the word is getting out as a growing number of motorists worldwide experience the benefits of synthetic lubrication. The wave of the future, in auto lubes, is well under way.

Synthetics Best For Winter Stress

2005-04-03T01:49:00.001-08:00

(NC)—You're sound asleep. Absolutely dead to the world. Suddenly, a huge person bursts in, drags you out of bed, throws you out the window into a snow bank and screams at you to start doing push-ups. Right now, faster, faster, faster! So how do you feel. A bit stressed, maybe.

Well, that's how your car engine feels every time you turn the key. Because starting your engine from cold is just like the story above. Really stressful. And the colder it is outside, the more stressful the start-up and warm-up period are.

This is one reason why synthetic motor oils are so popular in cold climates. Because synthetic oils are much more "pumpable". This means they flow better at low temperatures and circulate quickly when you start-up, even in sub-zero conditions. Some other advantages of synthetics are faster "cranking" speed when starting, and better fuel mileage.

Canada's top selling synthetic is Castrol Syntec, which contains an exclusive chemical that is attracted to metal, forming a bond with the components. The result is a protective layer called a "carpet", that cushions metal parts and reduces stress during the critical start-up period. For a small premium, oils like Syntec are a wise choice.

A wealth of interesting and valuable information on motor oils and lubricants can be found at www.castrolcanada.com or other well known petroleum web sites.
- News Canada

Internet Provides Wealth of Information on Car Maintenance

2005-04-03T01:49:00.000-08:00

p> by: ARA Content

(ARA) - A thorough check of your vehicle's major systems is a good idea before the snow flies, and checking your tires, brakes and battery is a good start. But if you're like many drivers, you may not know enough to recognize a problem when you see one.

For instance, do you know the telltale signs of a weakening battery? Do you know the difference between all-season tires and performance tires, or which one is right for your vehicle?

The Internet can provide a wealth of information for the car maintenance novice who is looking for tips on how to winterize a vehicle or make a specific purchase. Online resources, such as motorist.org and some manufacturer Web sites, can provide basic information on how systems such as brakes, shock absorbers and batteries work, why they're important, and what car owners should be aware of when preparing their vehicles for winter conditions.

For example, if your car cranks slowly when you try to start it, has trouble starting in cold weather, or if your headlights dim when the car is idling, have that battery checked. And if you're buying tires, all season radials are designed to handle dry and wet surfaces as well as some snow, while performance tires provide more grip and a sportier feel.

A new Web site, sears.com/auto, lets drivers compare features and prices of batteries and tires, gather information about automotive maintenance, and find answers to commonly asked questions and definitions for useful terms related to vehicle maintenance.

On the site, car owners can enter the year, make and model of their car to receive a list of tires and batteries designed to fit their vehicle. Items can be sorted by price, brand or product name, and car owners can compare as many as four similar items side by side. By entering their ZIP code, car owners can then find the nearest Sears Auto Center, where they can discuss questions and options with the experts on staff.

"With the information they gather online, car owners gain a better understanding of what they need and why, before they even begin comparison shopping," says Bill White, president of Sears Automotive. "Savvy consumers frequently come into their local Sears store with their printout of side-by-side comparisons when they are looking to purchase major appliances, lawn tractors, home theatre and other big-dollar items," he says. "Now, automotive tires and batteries are two more areas where sears.com can help consumers make fact-based decisions for major purchases."

The "Automotive Advisor" section of the site offers information on buying, maintenance, safety and more -- ideal as owners prepare their vehicles for winter driving. Common questions, ranging from how and when to check tire pressure to why "cold cranking amps" in your car battery are important, are answered in this section of the site.

The site also provides information on services Sears Auto Centers offer, such as alignments, brake service and wheel balancing, as well as a list of what is included with each service. All information from the site can be printed for quick reference. Because the products offered on the site must be installed on a vehicle, they are not available for online purchase, but can be obtained at Sears Auto Centers nationwide.

"On the Internet, auto owners can research the advantages of various products, compare prices and make decisions in the comfort of their own home," says White.

Sears also offers a wide variety of merchandise and services through its Web site, www.sears.com.

Improve Gas Mileage Without Damaging Your Car

2005-04-03T01:47:00.000-08:00

Many of the gas saving devices being advertised do not work and can actually damage your vehicle.

After evaluating and testing more than 100 alleged gas- saving devices, the Environmental Protection Agency has found only a few that improve mileage and none that do so significantly.

The gas-saving products on the market seem to fall into clearly defined categories. These include, but are not limited to: air-bleed devices, vapor-bleed devices, liquid injection devices, ignition devices, fuel line devices, mixture enhancers, internal engine modification devices, fuels and fuel additives, oils and oil additives, and driving habit modifiers.

The EPA evaluates or tests products to determine whether their use will result in any measurable improvement to fuel economy. However, the EPA cannot say what effect gas-saving products will have on a vehicle over a long period of time. It is possible that some products may harm the car or adversely affect its performance.

For example, if an "air bleed" device actually adds significant amounts of air to the air-and-fuel mixture, it may cause an engine to misfire, a condition which greatly increases the potential engine damage or mechanical failure. This is especially likely to happen on cars manufactured between 1974 and 1982, because their carburetors are pre-set for a maximum amount of air to be burned with the fuel. "Air-bleed" devices will not work at all on many cars manufactured after 1982, because these cars have "feedback" carburetors that automatically adjust the air-and-fuel mixture rendering the device useless.

Many ads feature glowing testimonials by satisfied customers. There are too many variables that affect fuel consumption, such as traffic, road and weather conditions, the car's condition and overall maintenance, and the driving habits of the owner.

In one case a consumer sent a letter to a company praising its gas-saving product. But what was not mentioned in the advertisement was the fact that the consumers vehicle also had an engine tune-up at the time the device was installed.

Some advertisers claim that the gas-saving device is approved by the Federal government. No government agency endorses gas-saving products for cars. The seller can only state that the item has been tested by the EPA. If the advertiser claims that the product has been tested by the EPA ask to see the results or contact the EPA directly.

If you have already purchased a gas-saving product and you are not satisfied, contact the manufacturer and ask for a refund. An honest company offers a money-back guarantee. If you are not satisfied with the company's response, contact your local or state consumer protection agency or the Better Business Bureau.

Keeping your car in tip top condition is the best way to get the best gas mileage your vehicle has to offer. Every vehicle come with an owners manual. Read and follow what the manufacturer recommends.

Three simple steps that will help improve gas mileage in all vehicles:

Getting a tune-up.
Checking tire pressure.
Removing any excess weight from the car's trunk.

For over 20 more tips and one secret hint go to

http://www.apluswriting.net/gasmiles/gasmiles.htm

Author: Marilyn Pokorney

Freelance writer of science, nature, animals and the environment. Also loves crafts, gardening, and reading.

Website: http://www.apluswriting.net

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Hydraulic?

2005-04-03T01:46:00.000-08:00

by: Seamus Dolly

This may sound a little strange, but one day a man called in looking for some water for his car. That was not unusual, until he started to put it into his hydraulic reservoir for the braking system of his car. I was young and curious, but he explained that water would suffice. Many years later and some hydraulic experience, it seems that he was right. Or partly so!

It should be remembered that twenty-five years ago, and anywhere from there back, the properties of rubber seals were different. Not deviating, but going some way to explain where the hydraulic oil/brake fluid, actually went. The fluid and indeed all oils were much different and had little agreement with the rubbers available at the time. Leakages were commonplace.

Though many may frown upon it, water is still efficient as a medium for hydraulic pressure, in the very short term, and especially in the case of a braking system in a general performance automobile. It is the purity of the water that changes its usability, but anything will do in an emergency. Incidentally, pure water is an insulator, though I wouldnt have the confidence to test the theory on a personal level, with four hundred volts. Lol! Seriously though, this would be a reason why battery top-ups, should be done with distilled or pure water. Water hasnt been simply, water, for some time, or since it was chemically analysed.

Modern hydraulic oils have anti-foaming, anti-wear (component-wise), anti-corrosive, lubrication, and heat dissipation properties. They also have special properties that limit their ability to compress, which is the area that hydraulic excels over pneumatic. Higher control comes with the solidity of the fluid, much as that sounds like a contradiction.

Indeed, pneumatic control is favoured where there are risks of contamination, from the oil itself, and this is one of the reasons that air is preferred to oil in a lot of production systems.

Friction does exist, even with fluid, and this as well as compressive forces, is the cause of heat generation. Any such heat generation, can result in a change in the liquids viscosity, thickness/thinness, ability to flow. It can also have a negative effect on the various sealing arrangement, whether steel on steel, rubber/plastic and its composites (sometimes brass or bronze impregnated polymers), or indeed, where cast iron replaces steel. Incidentally, dissimilar materials in juxtaposition and dynamically, are better than similar ones.

Steel on cast iron, generally, is better that steel on steel.

So, while this man went for the only resource available at that point in time, the pressure generated should be similar, or the difference negligible, he would have been missing the lubrication properties that oils achieve. His saving, was the short piston movement, the relatively slow speed of his vehicle, and the limited time of usage.

Hydraulics are exceptional at what they do, and large forces can be transmitted through tight radii, and indeed, returned through 180 degrees, such is its theory with respect to acting equally in all directions. Hydraulic systems have replaced the numerous and purely mechanical applications, where the moving parts are essentially and consistently lubricated. This is even better in a corrosive atmosphere, where for example, salty air will compromise all exposed parts.

On a lighter note, if such an improvising individual was thirsty, then he would have a choice between his brake fluid reservoir, his window washer reservoir, or indeed, his radiator.

How to Change Your Car's Motor Oil

2005-04-03T01:45:00.001-08:00

First, let's answer the question; Why should you change your own oil? Because you can save time and money. You don't have to wait in line at the service garage or quick oil change shop. For ten bucks you can get the best oil and a brand new oil filter. And, it's so easy to do that you could train a monkey to do it.

Changing your cars motor oil is a very simple three-step process: 1. Drain the old oil. 2. Replace the oil filter. 3. Add the new oil. But before we go through the steps, lets answer a few basic questions.

When should I change my oil?

Look in your cars owners manual. Most auto manufacturers recommend changing the motor oil every 6,000 miles for normal service, or every 3,000 miles for severe service. I change my oil every 6,000 miles, and my engines run like new when I trade my vehicles in with well over 100,000 miles on them. One thing that I do is change a new cars oil after the first 300 mile break-in period. Then, after that, I change the oil every 6,000 miles.

What kind of oil should I use?

You are not going to save money by using an off-brand oil because your engine will wear out sooner. Use oil that meets the American Pertroleum Institute (API) classification SL. I use Valvoline, Quaker State, Pennzoil, or Havoline brand oil. These quality oils contain additives that make them work better and longer.

If you are changing your oil just before winter, use SAE 10W30 weight oil. This number means the oil will have a thin 10 weight viscosity when the engine is cold, helping the engine to start easier, and then the oil will thicken to 30 weight viscosity when the engine warms up, protecting the engine better. If you are changing oil just before summer, use SAE 10W40 weight oil. The extra 40 weight viscosity will protect your engine better when it's hot.

What's the First Step?

First let your engine cool off. Modern engines run at close to 300 degrees (F) and hot oil will definitely give you a severe burn. You shouldn't have to jack your car up unless you have some kind of ground hugging sports car or low rider. Almost all cars have enough space underneath to reach under and change the engine oil.

Step 1: Drain the old oil.

Locate the oil drain plug and place a pan under it to catch the oil. With a box wrench, remove the oil plug.

Note for newbies: To remove the drain plug, turn it counter-clockwise.

- If you have a GM dual-overhead-cam EcoTec engine you may have a difficult time locating the drain plug on all that aluminum.

When the oil stops draining, reinstall the drain plug.

Note for newbies: To replace the drain plug turn it clockwise. Start the plug with your fingers. If it seems even slightly hard to turn, back it out! You are crossing the threads.

Step 2. Replace the oil filter.

Move your oil catch pan under the oil filter. Using an oil filter wrench to get it started, remove the oil filter. (newbies: counter-clockwise, and you will get some oil on your hand.)

- A strap type oil filter wrench is the best kind to use. A socket type oil filter tool is used with a ratchet just like a regular socket. The problem with the socket type is that it tends to get stuck on the filter. Use the socket type tool if you don't have enough clearance around the oil filter to use the strap type.

With your finger put a thin coat of oil on the new filter's gasket to make it seal better.

*! Now pay attention - here's were you can screw up royal!

With your hand, install the new oil filter. If it seems even slightly hard to turn, back it out! You are crossing the threads. Most filters have an instruction printed on them to give the filter one more turn after the gasket has made contact.

Here's what I recommend: screw the filter on until its "hand tight". Then use the oil filter wrench to snug it up another 1/8 to 1/4 turn. This is critical!

When the vehicle is running, the oil pump puts the oil under pressure. If you don't install the oil filter tight enough, the oil will come gushing out. If that happens shut down the engine immediately! Without oil, an engine will lock up within seconds.

The first time I changed my oil, I used the filter wrench to tighten the filter as tight as I could get it. Wrong! The next time I went to change my oil, I couldn't get the filter off. Luckily I had plenty of room around the filer, so I hammered a screw driver through the body of the filter and used the handle of the screw driver to turn the filter off.

Warning! Don't over-tighten the filter. Follow the instructions above carefully!

- The GM dual-overhead-cam EcoTec engine has an unusual oil filter located on top of the engine. Remove the engine air intake hose. That's the oil filter canister just to the right of, and below, the end of the open air intake tube. Use a proper size wrench to remove the canister lid. This engine uses a special filter cartridge.

Step 3. Add the new oil.

Locate the oil filler cap on the valve cover. I've seen newbies pour motor oil in everything from the master brake cylinder to the radiator cap. Make sure you have located the the oil filler cap. Remove the oil filler cap.

When pouring the oil, you would be wise to use a funnel between the oil can and the valve cover oil filler hole.

How much oil should you add? Look in your cars owner manual. Most engines have a capacity of four or five quarts. Don't overfill the crank case. When you run the engine the extra oil will be blown out through the PCV value, possibly stalling your engine.

Tip: If you don't know the oil capacity of the engine, add four quarts, then check the oil level, if it's a quart low add another quart.

Replace the oil filler cap.

Step 4. Start the Engine.

Yes, I know, I said there where only three steps. You're finished, this is not really a "step".

Start the engine and make sure the oil warning light goes off. Look under the vehicle to make sure oil is not leaking out. Turn off the engine and let it set for a minute to let the oil drain down to the crank case. Then use the dip stick to check the oil level.

How to check the oil level: Remove the dip stick, wipe it clean with a rag, reinstall the dip stick. Make sure the dip stick is in all the way or you will get a false reading. After a few seconds remove the dip stick and examine how far up the stick is covered with oil. Most dip sticks have a "full" mark printed on them.

Note: I find the best way to dispose of the old oil is to use a funnel to pore it from the collection pan into the bottles from which the new oil came. When I get a big pile of used oil bottles I bring them to the oil recycling center. Be sure to mark the used oil bottles so you don't accidentally think they are new oil.

Gain 5 Horsepower This Weekend, For Practically Nothing

2005-04-03T01:45:00.000-08:00

by: Nathan Morris

What if I told you that you can gain 5 horsepower this weekend, for less than $100? Or, what if I told you that you could gain 5 horsepower this weekend, for less than $20?

I bet you'd be interested eh?

Well, the good news is, I'm going to tell you how to gain 5 horsepower this weekend for $0-15 spent. Sound too good to be true? Well, read on!

1) Increase the H2O ratio in your coolant - if it weren't for corrosion and freezing concerns, automotive makers would use pure water. Water cools much better than coolant any day of the week, and a cooler engine is a better performer.

Instead of half and half, try 40/60. DO NOT use pure water, As this may cause premature corrosion and that can be no fun at all to clean up. You may also try water wetter to further enhance this effect.

2) Index your spark plugs - this is an age old trick that is good for about 1 extra pony. The idea here is to "aim" the open end of the spark plug terminal (the gap) towards the intake side of the head. In order to accomplish this, simply mark on the plug a small line to indicate where this gap is, and install the plug as normal.

Try to line up the line with the intake side as best as you can. It may require buying 2 sets of spark plugs in order to do this, but hopefully you'll be able to do this the first time. Be careful with aluminum heads not to over tighten, as that could lead to a costly repair.

3) Relocate IAT Sensor - This is a very simple modification that will work on a great deal of fuel injected vehicles. The IAT sensor (“Intake Air Temperature”) tells the computer how hot or cold the incoming air is. The computer will then adjust the amount of fuel being injected, as well as make minor adjustments to timing based on that reading.

The problem is that in many vehicles, the IAT sensor is located in the intake manifold, near the cylinder head. Therefore the air that the IAT sensor “reads” is much hotter than the air, say, in the intake arm. The idea with this mod, is to relocate the sensor to the intake arm. Use JB Weld or similar to patch up the old port for the sensor.

This will cause the computer to believe that incoming air is slightly cooler, causing it to inject more fuel and advance the timing a tad.

4) Synthetic Oil - This is guaranteed to pick up 1-2 horsepower, as multiple dynos over the years have proved this fact. Simply by switching to a true synthetic oil this weekend you can reduce the friction in your engine, improving efficiency, and therefore going faster.

5) Insulate Fuel Lines - When your fuel lines travel through the engine bay they heat up. However, cooler fuel produces more power for more reasons than just cooling down the intake charge--although that certainly helps things! So, to improve power output, simply purchase some refrigerator/air conditioning insulation and wrap the fuel lines with the insulation. While you're at it, you may wish to go ahead and do this to the intake arm as well for even more power.

Fall into a Great Routine for Car Maintenance

2005-04-03T01:43:00.000-08:00

- Fall is already here and in a short time, winter will be upon us. As you gear up for the colder temperatures, now is a good time to take preventive measures to care for your vehicle.

Maintain Your Car's Value and Appearance

According to the International Car Wash Association (ICA), regular professional washing and waxing will help maintain your car's appearance as well as its value.

"Most car owners understand the value of changing motor oil regularly to protect the engine," explains Mark Thorsby, executive director of ICA. "But if they forget and instead choose to replace the engine, the car could still be as good as new. However, a car with oxidized paint and a rusted-out body can never be economically restored. The best prevention is regular washing and waxing at a professional car wash."

With more than 22,000 professional car washes around the world offering a wide range of services to protect a car's finish from detoriating rusting, there's no excuse not to keep your vehicle in great shape. Car washes offer basic to extensive operations to suit all your car care needs.

For starters, try an exterior tunnel wash to automatically provide protective waxes and undercarriage treatment. Also, consider detailing or custom polishing for more extensive protection. By applying and buffing a premium polish, you can restore the shine of your car. On the detail side, you can vacuum everything from the rugs in the trunk to the air conditioner vents.

A Quick Fix

If you are running short on time but need your car professionally cleaned, try a self-service car wash that provides a variety of effective, self-cleaning services to choose from. For best results, follow the step-by-step instructions posted in the self-serve bay that call for starting with a pre-soak to loosen road grime. Next comes the high-pressure soap wash. For gentle scrubbing, use the foaming brush next, followed by the fresh water rinse. Also, remember to take advantage of special tire and wheel cleaners. For maximum protection and shine, the wax application is a must. Finally, many self-serve washes offer a spot-free rinse. All the solutions are specially formulated to clean tough road dirt and protect you car's shine.

Protect Your Car from Winter's Hazards

To get a jumpstart on protecting your car from winter's effects, remember that the most damaging thing you can do to your car during this time is nothing! Don't worry about your car freezing -- washing salt, slush and mud off your car in cold weather is vital.

The best thing you can do this winter is to wash your vehicle frequently at a professional car wash, even every few days if the temperature rises and falls from freezing and you've been driving on salted roads. Washing also should include an undercarriage rinse (available at most professional car washes) to remove salt from hard-to-reach areas that are likely to rust, such as the bumpers and in the wheel wells.

Now is the time to get your car in gear for the winter season with the preventive maintenance measure of having your car professionally washed -- you and your wallet will be glad you did. To find the location of a car wash near you visit www.carwashes.com.